The Taronga to Balmoral Walk is an easy bushwalk from Athol Bay near the wharf at Taronga Zoo to Balmoral Beach. It follows the northern side of Sydney Harbour’s shoreline, offering a unique blend of pristine bushland and stunning harbour views.

This is my favourite walk in Sydney, the one I take all my visitors on. Every time I do this track, I’m grateful to those who worked to keep this part of the harbour accessible for everyone.

I’ll show you the best spots to stop, where to grab a bite, and how to get there and back. Whether you’re visiting Sydney or have lived here for years, this walk is special.

Over 77km of the 240km of harbour shoreline has been reclaimed for public use.

What will you see on this walk to Balmoral Beach?

The Taronga to Balmoral walk is unique because despite the city skyline across the water, you feel miles from any city.

During the walk, you will come across:

• Sydney Harbour National Park’s pristine bushland
• spectacular harbour views
• an old naval base
• Tiny harbour beaches for swimming.
• a nude beach or two
• Several cafes and restaurants at Chowder Bay
• Sydney Harbour Marine Institute, where you can learn about the Harbour

Key Spots on the Taronga Zoo to Balmoral Beach walk

This 6km track starts below the zoo wharf and takes about two hours at an average pace. You can finish at the 4km point at Chowder Bay and backtrack to the wharf, or take a bus near Georges Head or Balmoral back.

Athol Bay Beach and Athol Hall

The first detour off the walking trail leads to one of the harbour’s best-kept secret beaches: Athol Beach. This small beach can be reached along a track leading off the main trail. It’s a favourite spot for boaties who anchor here to have lunch, swim and enjoy the view.

This harbour beach is usually pretty empty and safe if you feel like a quiet swim.

An alternate path leads to Athol Hall, a historic building from 1908. It was a private residence that became the Athol Gardens Hotel in the 1860s. The NSW Parks and Wildlife owns and operates it as a cafe.

It was a popular spot for dances and parties. It was also a popular wedding venue. My daughter got married here, and after recent renovations, it’s open for wedding bookings.

Bradleys Head Amphitheatre

In 1895, the land along this part of the harbour was leveled for coal mining. Thankfully, protesters halted the development and saved it for us to enjoy.

The headland is named after the first lieutenant of the first fleet ship, the HMS Sirius, Lieutenant Bradley, a cartographer who mapped much of the colony during his time here.

The amphitheatre was built after the film Mission Impossible 2 used the site for a stunt involving Tom Cruise rescuing a hostage. These days it hosts weddings and occasionally musical performances.

The rock jetty is a popular fishing and wedding photo spot with a city backdrop.

The parkland provides shade for picnics. Bradley’s Head is also a great sunset spot and a short walk back to the zoo wharf easily covered in dusk light before dark.

Continue walking to find a lighthouse, old military fortifications, and the mast of HMAS Sydney, commemorating Australian sailors killed in the war.

One last oddity before we move on, look out into the water just before the lighthouse, and you will see a Doric-style column sticking up out of the water. The pillar was from the Sydney General Post Office. When the building was demolished, it was moved here to mark one nautical mile to Fort Denison.

Continue on the track, which is now called Taylor’s Bay Track, to surprise surprise, Taylor’s Bay!

Taylors Bay

This track is bordered by a narrow strip of harbourside rainforest lined with Sydney Red Gums, and the scrub can get thick. It’s hard to believe you are just a few kilometres from the city.

Keep your eyes open, you may spot Aboriginal kangaroo engravings near a small stream.

Taylors Bay has a fascinating history; it’s where three Japanese midget submarines entered Sydney Harbour during WW2 and fired a torpedo at HMAS Kuttabul, killing 21 sailors. One was blown up by its crew when caught in the protective netting. The other two escaped.

Chowder Bay and Clifton Gardens

In the 1830s, a whaling station was established in Mosman at what is now called Chowder Bay. The bay got its name from the American whalers who made chowder from their catch. By the 1890s, whaling had ceased, and a base was built for the Submarine Mining Corps.

The bay has a fantastic view of the harbour traffic, and it’s the starting point of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race.

Sydney Institute of Marine Science (SIMS) has taken over some old buildings, including a small museum highlighting the area’s marine life and providing geographic detail on the harbour floor.

We enjoyed the virtual dive simulator that lets you explore in Sydney Harbour without getting wet.

The centre is open to the public one weekend a month, and luckily this coincided with our last visit.

Decision time. If you have energy, continue to Balmoral; it’s about 2km or 40 mins walk. Balmoral is one of the most beautiful harbour beaches and worth the effort.

If it’s time to stop, check out one of the cafes mentioned at the bottom of this article before catching the 244 bus back to Wynyard Station. The bus leaves from Drift Cafe on Chowder Bay Road.

L’Heritage, a new French restaurant on Chowder Bay Road, is hard to beat.

Georges Heights lookout and Headland Park

If you’re still with me, walk up the stairs behind the buildings at Chowder Bay and continue along the road until you reach Drift Cafe. From there, you can take a shortcut to Balmoral or continue straight to Middle Head.

The shortcut, called Bungaree’s Walkway (dedicated to indigenous leader Bungaree), leads to Georges Head Lookout. Take the staircase to the cafe’s right and follow it until you see the sign for Gunners Barracks or Georges Heights Lookout.

The stairs are tough on the knees, but they provide a cardio workout. The payoff is reaching the Georges Heights lookout with 180-degree views over the harbour, Manly, Vaucluse, and the city.

During WW2, Italian prisoners of war were housed in huts near this beach.

This area is part of Headlands Park. Besides the lookout, there’s an artist’s village to explore. To move on, retrace your steps to the main track and follow it to Middle Head Road. Cross the road and head down the staircase to Balmoral Beach.

The alternate route goes along Chowder Bay Road and past Obelisk Beach. This beach is clothing optional if you fancy a swim and did not bring your bathers.

Head to the right and continue to Middle Head before you retrace your steps and walk up a steep Middle Head Road. Keep walking until you come to a long metal staircase leading down to Balmoral Beach.

Balmoral Beach

Balmoral, the prettiest harbour beach in Sydney, offers calm, clear waters, a shaded park, excellent harbour views from Rocky Point, and food options from fine dining to fish and chips.

Grab some seafood and salad and head to Rocky Point (above) or to a shaded area for a picnic. The potato scallops are too good; we usually balance them with healthy seafood salad and fresh prawns, so we don’t feel guilty!

Balmoral is named after a Scottish castle and was home to an artists’ camp in the 1880s. In the early 1920s, a ferry started bringing daytrippers and shortly after, a tram line opened. Sydneysiders discovered the area’s beauty. I particularly like the rotunda built in the 1930s.

These days, the area doesn’t attract as many tourists as Bondi or Manly, making it perfect for getting off the beaten track.

Where to eat along the way

• Try Ripples at Chowder Bay for a special breakfast or lunch.
• Gunners Barracks – A popular cafe known for its high tea with a view. Make reservations, especially for a table with a view.
• Burnt Orange – From healthy breakfast to high tea and exciting lunch options, the menu always leaves me wanting to order too much.
• Bottom of the Harbour Fish and Chips – If you’re craving seafood with water views, head across the road from Balmoral beach for first-class fish and chips.
• The Boathouse at Balmoral Beach – upmarket salads and burgers by the water.

How to get to Taronga Zoo & the start of the track

The usual place to begin this walk is the Taronga Zoo Ferry Wharf. However, if you have a little more energy or want to make it a full day walk, you can start at Cremorne Point and follow the track to Taronga Wharf.

Once at the wharf, walk along Athol Wharf Road towards the zoo’s lower gate. The trail starts down the ramp on the harbour side, just past the zoo entrance. From the north, take a bus to the zoo’s top and walk down.

This section is officially known as the Bradley’s Head Track and leads to the headland known as Booraghee in the language of the Cadigal.

How to get back to the city from Balmoral Beach

To return to the city by ferry, take the 238 bus from Raglan St to Taronga Wharf. Alternatively you can take a bus directly to town.

We think this walk is the perfect addition to any Sydney itinerary, as the natural bushland here gives a great contrast to the busy city centre.

Download our Taronga to Balmoral Beach Map

Click on the markers for more information.

Google has loaded street view for this track so you can see the terrain before you head off.

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