NSW Southern Highlands – a Beginner’s Guide

On more than one occasion I have found myself lost in the NSW Southern Highlands. Not literally lost – though those winding country roads can be tricky – but lost in the best possible way. You know that feeling when you discover a place that’s been right under your nose all along? That’s what hit me as I wandered through Bowral’s antique shops and sipped locally-roasted coffee in Moss Vale.

Every time I visit I wonder why I had waited so long to drive south for the weekend? If you’re nodding along, thinking “that’s me too,” then stick around. This guide is for all of you who’ve been meaning to visit the Highlands “someday.” Trust me, you won’t regret making that someday today.

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So if you have decided it is time to explore the NSW Southern Highlands but you don’t really know much about the area, think of this introduction to the major towns as a good starting point for learning more about this fascinating region just south of Sydney. We have included the highlights and the basics of getting there for each town.

Why Visit the NSW Southern Highlands

The Southern Highlands of New South Wales has both natural beauty and historic significance by the bucket load. Rolling hills in shades of lush green and English-style villages with their quirky shops, pretty gardens and grand homesteads are big draw cards.

The highlands sit on the Great Dividing Range, the fifth-longest mountain range in the world. It stretches from Cape York to the Grampians in Victoria.

In addition to that, there are seven stunning but less explored National parks, including Morton, Budderoo and Macquarie Pass, dozens of vineyards and a vibrant food scene. With all of this, you have more than enough reasons this collection of towns and villages, just 90 minutes south of Sydney, should be on the radar for your next city escape.

But first, some history…

This is Gundungarra and Tharawal (or Dharawal) land, which extends from Camden to Goulburn. At one time, the Gundungarra people were referred to as the Bong Bong tribe. So if you have ever wondered how Bong Bong Street in Bowral came to be, now you know!

Wingecarribee, Burradoo, Mittagong, Bong Bong, Bowral, Bundanoon and Nattai are Indigenous Australians words.

By the time the first settlers arrived, records suggest less than 100 indigenous people had lived in the region. Some worked with the colonials as guides and translators, while others moved further south.

In 1802, the explorer Francis Barrallier met the Gundungara people. He noted in his journal that the Gundungara “themselves build huts for the strangers they wish to receive as friends.”

It was not until the 1880s that the highlands became a popular place for city dwellers to escape the summer temps. With a landscape reminiscent of England, elegant retreats appeared shortly after that railway line opened. Inns and public houses appeared in number, and like Katoomba, it sprung to life with Sydney’s elite coming to stay.

Top 6 Reasons to Visit the Highlands

While the entire region is captivating, there are a few standout reasons that make the Southern Highlands a must-visit destination.

Let’s break down the top six:

• Chasing waterfalls – along with the trinity of Carrington, Belmore, and Fitzroy Falls, there are several less known, spectacular waterfalls waiting to be discovered.
• Hiking – An enormous variety of bush walks with tracks ranging from short family-friendly walks to challenging day walks to hone your navigation skills.
• Wine tasting – and of course shopping – organic, vegan, handpicked, family-operated are popular words used to describe the award-winning wineries that produce a vast range of cool-climate wines.
• Wildlife spotting – In the highlands, koalas, platypus and kangaroos are in good numbers. In fact, the area has the largest koala population in Southern NSW.
• Garden visits – Every year, the annual Tulip Time festival in spring and the changing autumn tones draw Sydneysiders to these towns.
• Antique and homeware shopping – Dozens of fabulous antique shops, op shops and stylish boutique homeware shopping.

The Main Towns in the Southern Highlands of NSW

Now that we’ve sparked your curiosity, let’s dig into the heart of the Southern Highlands – its charming towns. Each one has its own unique character and attractions, so let’s explore them one by one.

Mittagong

If you drive down the freeway from Sydney, the first town you come to is Mittagong. Mittagong is surrounded by walking trails, lookouts, and is home to the beautiful Lake Alexandra.Mount Gibraltar, the highest point in the highlands, is just a short drive away, and there are some lovely walks in the area.

What to See and Do in Mittagong

• Climb or drive to the top of 863m high Mount Gibraltar and check out the views from its three lookouts, Bowral Lookout, Mittagong Lookout and Mount Jellore Lookout.
• Picnic at Lake Alexandra after lunch. Feed the ducks and take a walk around the lake. Excellent facilities and lots of space.
• For only $20, take a tour of a working farm at The Pines Pastoral.

Where to Shop

• Mittagong Antiques Centre
• Twisting Vintage – a vintage fashion emporium.

Where to Eat

• The Shaggy Cow – great coffee and quality local treats.
• Gumnut Patisserie – the prettiest cakes and pastries in town.
• Paste Australia – Thai Cuisine Restaurant

Where to Stay Near Mittagong

• Mittagong Caravan Park is a brilliant spot if you are road tripping or camping
• Apple Tree Cottage – a historic 1870s sandstone cottage
• Old Bank Boutique Hotel – in town and walking distance to the train station.

Wine tasting near Mittagong

• Artemis Wines – This dog-friendly, family-run winery was the first to plant Pinot Noir in the region.

Location: Google map link
Transport: Train from Central to Macarthur, then change for the Moss Vale train. Average travel time 2hrs 20 minutes.

Bowral

Bowral, the largest of the Southern Highlands towns, is an excellent base if you want resort-style hotels and fine dining on your doorstep. It’s also a top choice for visitors without a car.

The town is home to many well known Australians, with those from the arts best represented.

International Cricket Hall of Fame (aka the Bradman Museum) – Where a life-sized statue of Sir Donald Bradman greets you on arrival, and plenty of fascinating cricket memorabilia await inspection in the attached museum.

Bowral (originally Bowrall) is said to come from the Aboriginal word that means “high and large”

Things You Should See in Bowral

• Corbett Gardens – the centre of the action in late September for the Tulip Time Festival.
• Mansfield Reserve – a great place to spot koalas and stretch your legs.
• Retford Park is a stunning Italianate mansion managed by the National Trust.
• The Bradman Museum and International Cricket Hall of Fame. Get the map and do the Bradman town walk too!

Where to Eat 

• Bare Bites and Brews – a vegan plant-based eatery
• Eden Brewery – Craft beer and great burgers
• Tractorless Wine and Bowral Brewing @ The Mill Bowral – The Mill complex is a must.

Where to Shop in Bowral

• Dirty Janes Antique Shop – a well-known spot for fossicking for interesting pieces. They also serve high tea.
• The Plantation – a cafe that sells some fabulous local food and household products.

Where to Stay 

• Berida Hotel – luxury rooms with a spa and indoor pool.
• Sebel Bowral Heritage Park – studios, 1 and 2-bedroom apartments
• Peppers Bowral – 5 minutes from town on a 9 hole golf course.
• Gibraltar Hotel – high-end rooms on a stunning 18-hole golf course.

Wineries in or Near Bowral 

• Centennial Vineyards is one of the oldest in the region and Haliday’s 5 star rated vineyard. It hosts the Borealis in the Vineyards!

Location: Google map link
Transport: Train from Central to Macarthur then change for the Moss Vale train – average travel time 2hrs 25 minutes.

Berrima

This historic village is perfect for visitors looking for a day trip from Sydney that includes poking around the shops. Its name is said to mean “southward” or “black swan”.

This pretty Georgian Village is jam-packed with historic buildings that have barely changed since the railway bypassed the town in the 1860s.

The town is full of historical significance, including the oldest continuously licensed inn in Australia. The Surveyor General Inn (1834) was built with convict labour.

Visit in spring and you can see Canola fields along the way into town.

It’s home to Australia’s oldest surviving gaol, and its impressive courthouse is the site of the colony’s first jury trial in 1841.

See and Do

• Take the Berrima River Walk and see if you can spot a platypus.
• Find your way out of the Hedge maze at Harper’s Mansion.
• See the latest works at Whitewall Art Projects
• Visit the Berrima Courthouse.

Where to Eat in Berrima

• Berrima General Store – book or arrive early on weekends
• The Magpie Cafe – a great spot for a long lunch.
• Gumnut Patisserie – the region’s most popular place for cakes.

Where to Shop 

• Berrima Village Pottery
• Hand Stirred Jam Company
• Berkelouw Book Barn – books and dining just out of town

Wineries In or Nearby

• Peppergreen’s Tasting Room is right in town.
• Bendooley Estate is on the road north to Sydney.

Location: Google map link
Transport: Train to Moss Vale and then 812 bus (30 mins)

Moss Vale

Moss Vale, one of the biggest towns in the highlands, was the first Southern highlands settlement site. Once the railway arrived, so did settlers, and it became the hub of the region.
The town is still very much a service centre for the highlands.

Well known for its English trees and gardens, Moss Vale is now developing a reputation for fantastic food and dining. There is plenty here to keep the food lover happy; you cannot fit it all into one weekend.

Must-See Sites in Moss Vale

• Throsby House – Jemmy Moss, a herdsman, was the first permanent colonial resident to Moss Vale. He was employed by the owner and worked at Throsby House.
• The wetlands at Cecil Hopkins Nature Reserve will delight bird lovers.

Where to Eat in Moss Vale

• Post Office Cafe – a great restoration right by the train station.
• Southern Highlands Brewing & Taphouse – try to arrive for “Tappy Hour” from 3pm – 6pm Fridays

Shop in Moss Vale

• Mossy Store – homewares and handmade furniture
• Bowerbird on Argyle is a design store with a fab range of homewares, gifts and fashion items.
• Reviva at the Resource Recovery Centre is a social enterprise run centre where you can reuse, recycle and upcycle. If you love to rummage around in charity shops, don’t miss this one.

Where to Stay in Moss Vale

• Argyle Hotel – Budget digs in the centre of town.
• The Old Nunnery, a lovely BnB, is in a 120-year-old property.
• Peppers Manor House offers rooms and suites on magnificent grounds on the outskirts of town.

Wineries near Moss Vale

• Mount Ashby Estate is one of the most photogenic wineries we have visited in the region.

Location: Google map link
Transport: Train from Central Station 2 hours and 30 minutes (Change at Macarthur Station).

Robertson

Robertson is a small, quiet town that links the Illawarra coast to the highlands. It is a dairy town famous for its cheese and the largest potato growing area in NSW.

Many lookouts in the area offer green rolling hills and distant sandy beaches. This town, which feels much like a small English village, is a fabulous base for visiting the many waterfalls or hiking in Budderoo National Park.

Many early settlers in the area came from Ireland, among them John Hanrahan, who planted the first potato crops in 1867.

Robertson makes a great base for exploring the national parks and waterfalls. After a day of hiking, there is plenty of food for the appetite you build. It’s also a wonderful spot to relax and take in the views!

Natural Highlights Near Robertson

• Belmore Falls – named after the Governor of NSW and Earl of Belmore.
• Carrington Falls and nearby Nellies Glen
• Fitzroy Falls – also named for a NSW governor.
• Remnant Native Australian Rainforest – take a walk, thought the 600m loop – great for kids 
• Illawarra Fly – just 10 minutes from Robertson, you can take the treetops walk at Illawarra Fly for fabulous rainforest views.

Where to Eat in Robertson

• Moonacres Kitchen is well known for their sourdough, which we rate too!
• Lucinda’s Pantry – we missed it this time, but locals were really adamant we try it next time.
• Southern Rise Bakery / Robertson Pie Shop – Do a pie taste test and pick your favourite. Southern Rise won us.
• Robertson Public House (1887), is one of the oldest timber buildings in NSW.

Where to Shop 

• Robertson Cheese Factory – way more than just cheese; it has antiques, fudge, and fantastic gelato.
• The SHAC– Southern Highlands Artist’s Collective – is an eclectic collection worth a look across the road from the pub.
• The Cool Room, a Country Emporium, is in the same building as the Cheese Factory.

Where to Stay

• Robertson Hotel – Grand old hotel – with friendly service and unpretentious style is home of the TV Series The Traitors that premiered in 2022.
• Robertson Public House – pop up to bed after they call last drinks! Lovely rooms, but share bathrooms may not appeal to all.

Location: Google map link
Transport: Train to Wollongong and then board the Moss Vale bus, which stops in Robertson. The full journey takes about 3hrs and 15 mins.

Bundannoon

Bundanoon, famous for its avenue of English trees and rolling mists in April/May, is home to the annual Brigadoon Festival, which sees the population swell to celebrate all things tartan.

There is also a very popular walk to the Glow Worm Glen, where you can see glow worms shine after dark. Sadly, it was damaged in the 2020 bushfires and is currently closed.

Finally, stop in at Sunnatarum Forest Monastery for something completely different. It is currently only open on Sundays. You can take part in a meditation session and join the monks for lunch. You can also help in the garden in the afternoon.

Location: Google map link
Transport: The train to Canberra makes a stop at Bundanoon. Limited services from the Southern Highlands line also make the journey.

Smaller Southern Highlands Towns We Love

While the larger towns often steal the spotlight, the Southern Highlands is also home to several smaller villages that are equally deserving of your attention.

Here are a few hidden gems we think you’ll love:

Burrawang Village

Burrawang, just a short drive from Robertson is a good place to stop off after viewing nearby Belmore Falls. The Burrawang General Store and the Burrawang Pub are the two key places to search out a meal.

Kangaroo Valley

Kangaroo Valley, the southernmost town of the area, is a very popular town for a weekend away. Paddle the Kangaroo River, or take a swim under the historic Hamden. Plenty of great accommodation and a very good caravan park make this a popular weekend getaway spot.

Sutton Forrest

Country retreat for wealthy Sydneysiders in the 1880s and some pretty famous names today. A little over 5km from Moss Vale Sutton Forest once hosted NSW governors at Hillview Estate for their summer vacations.

Make time, visit Red Cow Farm and its beautiful gardens. One look at their Instagram feed will convince you that you need to stop here.

Exeter

If you find yourself down this way at the right time of day, Exeter General Store is the place to head for breakfast. They named the town after an English town in Devon.

Joadja

Joadja, home to an abandoned mining village and a distillery that produces various spirits, including single malt whiskey, gin, brandy and more, is a must for history lovers. Book a distillery tour or visit the old town.

When is the best time to visit the Southern Highlands?

Now that we’ve covered where to go and what to see, you might be wondering when to plan your visit.

The Southern Highlands offers unique experiences year-round, with each season bringing its own charm:

• Spring: Visitor numbers increase as people come to enjoy the vibrant floral displays.
• Summer: A close second in popularity, perfect for outdoor activities.
• Autumn: Ideal for hiking, with the added bonus of more affordable accommodation prices.
• Winter: Attracts visitors seeking cozy fireplaces and fine dining experiences.
• June: Despite being winter, this is actually the busiest month, with peak accommodation prices.

How cold does it really get?

The average Sydneysider will need to pack a jacket year-round for a visit to the highlands. We are not used to cool overnight temps, so you will probably reach for it come sundown.

• Summer – day time highs of 23-26 degrees celsius and 12-18 degrees overnight
• Autumn – 12-18 degrees in the daytime to between 11-2 overnight
• Winter – 11-13 day time highs and 1-3 degrees overnight
• Spring- 16-23 and 4-10 overnight

May, July and August see the least rain, and there is only occasional snow in the region. The wettest months are February, June and November.

How to Get to the Southern Highlands

Driving routes to the Southern Highlands

You can approach the highlands from Sydney via the M5 Motorway and Hume Highway or the M1 along the coast and then the Macquarie Pass to Robertson.

• If you are planning to visit Mittagong, Bowral or Berrima, the Hume Highway is the best choice.
• To visit the waterfalls and towns of Roberton or Kangaroo Valley in The Southern Highlands, take the M1 and Macquarie Pass or Jamberoo Mountain Road.

The area is well suited to a loop trip, so if you plan to visit most towns during your stay, return the opposite way.

Southern Highlands Train Services

If you don’t have a car, you can still enjoy a break here. Trains travel from Sydney to Bowral, Mittagong and Moss Vale. Choose one of these towns as a base, and there is enough to keep you busy exploring for a couple of days.

Ready to explore the southern highlands?

Whether you’re after a quick day trip or a longer escape, the Southern Highlands has something for everyone. From cozy pubs and antique shops to stunning waterfalls and wineries, it’s all just a short drive from Sydney.

So what are you waiting for? Pack a bag, grab your mates, and hit the road. The Highlands are calling!

Got a question? Head over to our Sydney Expert Facebook Group and ask a local.